Priest Koromo (Jikitotsu)

$885

Known colloquially as koromo 衣 (“robe,” “clothing”), a more formal name for the full-sleeved, black outer priest robe is jikitotsu 直綴/裰 (“directly sewn”). This name comes from the fact that the upper garment, consisting of bodice and long sleeves, was originally separate from the lower pleated skirt, which were later sewn together. Early forms of jikitotsu became popular in medieval China around the Song Dynasty and were worn by Buddhist monks, Daoists, and scholar-officials. 

This version follows the traditional Soto style, with a seven-pleated skirt, very long sleeves, and “sword ties,” a secondary set of long ties at the hip originally used to attach a sword, but left hanging empty by Buddhist monks as a symbol of being unarmed.

Bodice options (choose one):

• Fully-lined bodice — This style has been passed down within San Francisco Zen Center and was taught to me by Mo. The bodice is fully opaque and has a bit more structure due to the lining, while the okumi (front panels) add a beautiful finish.
• Half-lined bodice — This style has a wide inner shoulder yoke and a waist facing, while remaining unlined around the middle. It does not have okumi. It is typical of modern koromo made in Japan, and is also a lighter and more breathable choice for summer.

Sleeve management options (choose one):

• Frog closures (a knotted button)
• Ribbon ties

Additional style options

• Omit the sword ties
• Substitute Rinzai sleeves (cut to the same length as a lay robe, i.e. shorter than the full Soto length)
• Add permanent pleats (what is this?) +$70
• Add hand-sewn removable overcollar plus a replacement fabric piece (what is this?) +$50